There are few places in the world where vermouth culture has become as indigenous as in Argentina. From the Italian immigrants who brought the drink at the end of the 19th century to the local versions of vermouth that appeared over the decades, this drink has earned an unshakable place in the national culture.
“Let’s have a vermouth” is an invitation similar to a code of gentlemen from the Middle Ages. Bars have been and continue to be the natural places to enjoy an old-fashioned vermouth.
In this article we explain why vermouth is so popular in Argentina and Buenos Aires, what its origins are and the main brands and bars you can find there.
Why is Vermouth so Popular in Buenos Aires?
European Cultural Influence
The widespread popularity of vermouth in Argentina can be traced back to the significant Italian immigration during the 19th and 20th centuries. Vermouth quickly became one of the most consumed beverages in the country, second only to wine. This growing demand prompted major Italian producers to establish operations in Argentina.
The first vermouth brand to arrive in Argentina was Cora, with records of its presence dating back to 1838. In 1923, Cinzano, an Italian brand, opened its first factory outside of Italy in Argentina to meet the increasing demand. Following this, other iconic brands like Martini, Branca, and Bols entered the Argentine market. These vermouths gained popularity among locals, even as competition from emerging local brands intensified.
The Impact of Local Culture
Given the drink’s immense popularity, it was only natural for Argentina to begin producing its own vermouths and aperitifs. Interestingly, not all locally produced vermouths were the creations of Argentine producers. One notable example is La Hesperidina, a successful beverage created by an American immigrant who was a pharmacist. This drink became so popular that it led to the establishment of Argentina’s first intellectual property laws in 1876.
Many of these local aperitifs were marketed as health products, promising various benefits. For instance, Pineral was promoted as an appetite stimulant and digestion aid, while Hierroquina, invented in 1887, was marketed as a tonic for “blood restoration.” Another famous Argentine vermouth is El Amargo Obrero, created in 1888 in the city of Rosario. This drink became a cultural symbol for workers, especially anarchist groups, distinguishing itself from the sweet vermouths favored by the upper class.
In recent years, high-quality vermouths produced locally have gained prominence, thanks to collaborations between cocktail experts and enologists from various wineries. This marks a significant development in a country renowned for its wine, the base ingredient of vermouth.
Vermouth in Argentine Life
The relationship between Argentinians and vermouth has seen its ups and downs. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, vermouth was fiercely competitive, with both international brands and local versions continuously vying for attention.
By the end of the 20th century, the “ritual” of drinking vermouth had waned as a cultural habit. However, at the beginning of the 21st century, vermouth experienced a resurgence, driven by the cocktail industry, which saw the inclusion of aperitifs in their recipes as a way to create accessible and high-quality cocktails.
For both past and present generations of Argentinians, vermouth is more than just a drink—it’s a cultural experience. Family and friend gatherings often start with a glass of vermouth, so much so that many restaurants have adopted this tradition to welcome their guests.
While new local producers have brought vermouth back into the spotlight, the collective memory of several generations still holds onto the traditional brands. It’s not uncommon for older Argentinians, when discussing vermouth, to reference well-known brands like Cinzano, Gancia, Branca, Bols, Pineral, Hesperidina, Amargo Obrero, and Cynar.
Historic Bars and Vermouth
Vermouth has been, and continues to be, a staple at social gatherings for Argentinians. While some may associate social events with beer, a significant portion of the population insists that vermouth must be on the table.
During the height of the vermouth craze, historic bars in Buenos Aires already featured it as part of their alcohol offerings. Workers, intellectuals, and politicians often chose vermouth for their social meetings in these bars, sometimes even over coffee.
In many of the city’s “bares notables” (notable bars), vermouth is still served in the traditional way: a cylindrical glass filled 50% with vermouth and ice, with a siphon of soda on the side so that the customer can mix it to their liking. It’s also customary to accompany vermouth with snacks or cold cuts, which may or may not be included when you order the drink.
In Argentine bars, you can find both innovative new vermouths and the most traditional, long-established ones like Branca, Cinzano, Gancia, Bols, Cynar, Martini, Hesperidina, and Amargo Obrero.
Vermouth-Exclusive Bars
El Banderín: A classic in the Almagro neighborhood, founded by Spanish immigrants, El Banderín is a favorite among locals for enjoying vermouth alongside a platter of cold cuts.
Varela Varelita: Located in the trendy Palermo neighborhood, Varela Varelita is a vintage-style bar that’s always packed with customers eager to enjoy their vermouth.
La Fuerza Bar: Situated in the heart of Buenos Aires, La Fuerza is not only a vermouth bar but also a producer with its own brand of vermouth.
Roma del Abasto: A bar with a tango and neighborhood vibe, Roma del Abasto is the perfect place to pair your vermouth with delicious food.
Casa María Vermutería: A tapas bar in Palermo that offers traditional vermouth, being true specialists in the drink.
(Featured Image Source: encantadíssim/flickr.com)
