Are you ready to explore one of the most vibrant and dynamic neighborhoods in Buenos Aires? Palermo, with its blend of cultural richness, bustling nightlife, and lush green spaces, offers an unparalleled experience for digital nomads, travelers, and expats alike.
In this comprehensive guide, ExpatPathways will take you through everything you need to know about Palermo, from its history and subdivisions to the best places to eat, drink, and unwind.
Discover why Palermo is a favorite destination for those seeking the perfect balance of urban excitement and serene retreats in the heart of Buenos Aires.
Palermo (Buenos Aires): Everything You Need to Know About the Neighborhood
Basic Information About the Palermo Neighborhood (Buenos Aires)
Palermo is a residential and recreational neighborhood. Within its boundaries are the “Bosques de Palermo,” which include extensive parks and green spaces. It is a major gastronomic, cultural, and audiovisual hub and one of the preferred destinations for tourists visiting the city.
The origins of this neighborhood are linked to Don Juan Manuel de Rosas, who acquired these lands around 1836 and built his residence here. His residence was located at the southeast corner of the current Avenidas del Libertador and Sarmiento. After the Battle of Caseros, Urquiza occupied the house, which later became the site of the School of Arts and Crafts, the Military School, and the Naval School.
On November 11, 1875, Sarmiento’s initiative came to fruition with the inauguration of Parque Tres de Febrero. Shortly after, the Botanical Garden and the Zoological Garden were created. Tango also found its place in Palermo, with Hansen being its mythical stage during a time when the Maldonado stream was still open to the sky. Over time, remnants of the past disappeared, such as the demolition of Rosas’ old house in 1889 and the disappearance of the famous gates in 1917.
Regarding the origin of the neighborhood’s name, there are still ongoing debates. The first of the two most widely circulated hypotheses connects the name with Juan Domínguez Palermo, who owned the land in the early 17th century. The second suggests it derives from an oratory where an image of San Benito de Palermo was venerated.
In the forests of the city’s largest neighborhood, you can engage in many activities or simply relax under a tree.
Palermo is the largest neighborhood in Buenos Aires and one of the most notable. According to the latest census, 225,000 people live in the neighborhood and enjoy all the amenities it offers.
A neighborhood with tradition and innovation, living in Palermo means being in one of the most dynamic areas in the country and Latin America, a true cultural and commercial nucleus.
The Many Faces of Palermo
The vast area it occupies and its prime location have made Palermo one of the most active neighborhoods in recent years. It’s common to divide it into sub-zones, each characterized by distinct qualities but always maintaining the Palermo touch of good taste and quality of life. Those looking for rental or purchase options in Palermo are met with a variety of choices.
In Palermo Hollywood, audiovisual production companies are concentrated, while in Palermo Soho, bars, clubs, and theaters abound. Both areas have seen a rise in restaurants of all types, from typical canteens to avant-garde gourmet spots. Palermo Viejo still retains its low houses and quiet streets, while Palermo Chico presents itself as the most exclusive and traditional.
Palermo also forms one of the largest communes in Buenos Aires. Additionally, it borders significant neighborhoods and areas such as Belgrano, Chacarita, Almagro, Villa Crespo, and Recoleta.
Palermo is one of the 48 official neighborhoods of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is located in the northern part of the city and within Commune 14, covering the entire territory of this commune. With a surface area of 15.6 km², it is the largest neighborhood in the city.
Various Sub-Neighborhoods or Districts Within Palermo
Palermo Viejo, Soho, and Hollywood
Palermo Viejo is probably the most “lively” area of this neighborhood, mainly because it consists of two micro-neighborhoods. On one side is Soho, full of independent designers’ shops, art galleries, and bookstores, similar to the Soho neighborhood in New York City.
On the other side is Hollywood, characterized by its television and film studios, referencing the district in Los Angeles. A small detail to note: Soho is also known as Hot or Medio, while Hollywood was once called Palermo Bagdad by the legendary Argentine singer Charly García.
Immersed in a creative and innovative world, why is it known as Viejo (Old)? The answer lies in its low houses from bygone eras, contributing to the eclecticism of its streets. Palermo Viejo is known for its absolute understanding of urban art, which can be explored on an exclusive guided tour by the Tourism Board.
Its main gastronomic and nightlife hub is Plaza Cortázar (formerly Plaza Serrano), but getting lost in its streets in search of small bars and restaurants run by emerging young chefs is also a great idea. If you visit on a weekend, don’t miss its artisan fairs.
Palermo Botánico, Chico, and Alto Palermo
These are possibly the most sophisticated areas of Palermo. The first, as its name suggests, is located around the Botanical Garden, an oasis of vegetation in the middle of the city. Palermo Chico, on the other hand, has a similar historical touch since it was created by the landscaper Carlos Thays in 1912, giving birth to a tree-lined neighborhood with elegant buildings.
Its distinctive feature is its vast array of cultural options, including museums, art galleries, monuments, and outdoor spaces. The remaining area, which justifies its name due to the shopping center located at Av. Santa Fe and Av. Coronel Díaz, is filled with clothing stores, one next to the other.
A quick note for Palermo Chico: don’t miss the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires (MALBA) with the most important collections on the continent, the José Hernández Museum of Popular Art showcasing Argentine Creole tradition, and the National Museum of Decorative Arts with its renowned sculptures.
Las Cañitas, Palermo Pacífico, and Palermo Nuevo
These areas are ideal for daytime strolls and splendid for nighttime visits! Las Cañitas began with a farm of the same name, later known as “La Imprenta” due to a printing shop near the Palermo Racetrack. Nowadays, besides its numerous bars and restaurants, this area is known for sports activities related to polo, turf, and golf.
Likewise, Palermo Pacífico refers to the bridge connecting different parts of the city, while Palermo Nuevo consists of streets filled with offices, jewelry stores, and delicatessen shops. And, as in all of Palermo, don’t miss the opportunity to try various Argentine and international dishes.
Where Is Palermo Located?
Palermo includes all the parks from Av. del Libertador, similar to how Barrio Norte used to end at Av. Callao and later at Pueyrredón. Palermo encompasses squares and parks, the Planetarium, the Polo Field, and the Racetrack.
Due to real estate marketing, its boundaries have been redrawn to include Av. Coronel Díaz and reclaimed lands from the river that can now be developed, such as Las Cañitas.
Traditionally, the core of Palermo started at Av. Coronel Díaz and ended at the Maldonado stream, which runs beneath Av. Juan B. Justo, centering around Av. Sarmiento, including lowlands down to Av. Dorrego, military lands, and areas for sports and education.
Palermo’s borders include the following neighborhoods: Recoleta to the northeast, Almagro to the south, Villa Crespo to the southwest, Chacarita and Colegiales to the west, and Belgrano.
The population increased from 225,970 inhabitants in 2010 to 249,016 in 2022. The 2001 census recorded 225,245 inhabitants, representing a 0.1% increase. Its population density is 14,485 inhabitants per km², but this is not evenly distributed due to large green spaces.
Green spaces in Palermo
The Bosques de Palermo, the city’s green lung, are located here. This vast park area includes a golf course, a polo field, the Galileo Galilei Planetarium, a velodrome, and the Japanese Garden, managed by the Japanese community. It also includes the historic Rosedal promenade and a lake. Along the flanking avenues are elegant residences, embassies, and apartment towers.
In Palermo, you’ll find the Botanical Garden and the city’s Zoo, which, along with “the Bosques,” reflect the urban ideas of the late 19th-century political class: liberal, scientific, and modernizing. Additionally, the King Fahd Islamic Cultural Center and the Argentinian Racecourse of Palermo, immortalized in some tango lyrics, are located here.
Public transport network in Palermo
Palermo is traversed by a complex and extensive public transport network. Trains, subways, and buses reach every part of Palermo, facilitating mobility and reducing the need for private vehicles.
However, the promotion of sustainable transport has made Palermo one of the preferred neighborhoods for encouraging bicycle use through protected bike lanes. You can ride your bike in these lanes without dealing with car and truck traffic, but you need to know where these exclusive lanes are since not all streets and avenues have them.
Advantages of Living in Palermo
- Palermo is the largest neighborhood in Buenos Aires.
- It has one of the highest population densities in Buenos Aires.
- In Palermo, Argentine residents live alongside thousands of foreigners who choose this neighborhood for their stay.
- Palermo is modern in its transportation and infrastructure, with many coworking spaces located here.
- Palermo’s green spaces are numerous and extensive. A few blocks from your accommodation, you’ll find a place to get fresh air and exercise.
- If you’re looking to explore Buenos Aires’ culinary flavors, Palermo is ideal. Restaurants and bars of all kinds vie for attention with their traditional and innovative offerings.
- The nightlife in Palermo is unparalleled. Clubs, dance clubs, and pubs invite residents to enjoy every day of the week.
- If safety is a concern when traveling to Buenos Aires, Palermo is one of the safest neighborhoods. The coordination between public security forces and private surveillance, along with modern monitoring systems, makes this one of the city’s safest areas.
- Do you prefer an apartment for rent? A hotel? Or maybe a hostel to immerse yourself in Argentine culture and meet other travelers? All options are valid in Palermo.
Activities and Things to Do in the Palermo Neighborhood (Buenos Aires)
We are not exaggerating when we say that Palermo is like a district within a larger district (Buenos Aires). The size of the neighborhood and the variety of things to do and see mean that you could live in Buenos Aires for a year and still not fully explore this fantastic neighborhood.
Here we share the main activities you can enjoy in Palermo.
Restaurants
Did you know that Palermo has the largest variety of restaurants and food shops in Buenos Aires?
You will be amazed by the diversity of options available to enjoy a lunch or dinner in good company. In fact, you don’t need to walk near the main avenues to find excellent restaurants, because Palermo is a large open-air shopping gallery.
And the best part is that you can eat whatever you want. Argentine asado? Try Don Julio or La Cabrera. Peruvian food? La Mar. The options are diverse and cater to all tastes. Of course, prices vary, with restaurants like Don Julio being a costly yet delightful option for diners seeking the best meat.
Cafés
In Buenos Aires, we have been coffee masters since long ago. The massive immigration from Europe, along with waves of migrants from neighboring countries, helped create a special coffee culture. Tango song lyrics, popular music, literature, and poetry highlight the importance of traditional cafés in Buenos Aires life.
However, in recent years, the Argentine palate for coffee has become more demanding. It’s no longer just about a frothy, hot coffee accompanied by something tasty to eat; the quality of the coffee and the entire process behind its production are also crucial, including the place of harvest, the drying method, roasting, and more.
For this reason, the Palermo neighborhood is the perfect battleground for coffee “warriors.” You can find everything from classic internationally and nationally renowned coffee shops to specialty or boutique cafés, small, select, and devoted to the quality of the raw material. You can also visit the notable cafés or bars, which are testaments to Argentine history and coffee culture.
Nightlife
Did you choose the Palermo neighborhood in search of tranquility during your stay in Buenos Aires? We don’t say this to suggest that the choice was wrong. But let us tell you that Palermo is a neighborhood whose nightlife you shouldn’t miss.
The nightclubs in Palermo offer dance floors and music to enjoy until the early hours of the morning. A unique aspect of nightlife in Buenos Aires is that it starts and ends very late compared to other cities in Latin America.
But that’s not all. Palermo has such a large number of bars and breweries that it will be very difficult to make a decision. Most bars offer a relaxed and casual atmosphere for groups of friends, although you can also opt for boutique bars. These specialize in high-quality cocktails and stand out not only for their quality and menu but also for their crazy concepts and striking ambiances.
Parks
Cities as large as Buenos Aires usually have green spaces in different areas. The purpose is for each commune or area of the city to have a place where residents can get fresh air, walk, and, why not, do physical activities without having to travel to a distant green space.
If you chose Palermo as your neighborhood, you’re in luck: its green spaces are varied and among the best-maintained in the city. From Parque 3 de Febrero with its lakes to squares, small plazas, and gardens, the options available for you to take a break during your stay are extensive.
Museums
If you are someone who has a special attraction to museums, you’re in luck. In the Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires, you will be surrounded by art, thematic, and historical museums.
Buenos Aires itself is a city that offers a great variety of museums all over its streets. However, a good number of them are concentrated in the Palermo neighborhood, one of the largest in the city.
The National Museum of Fine Arts, the Xul Solar Museum, the Evita Museum, and the Museum of Latin American Art, among many others, await you with their collections and exclusive works. But if we extend the concept of “museum” to other forms of cultural and artistic expression, you must also visit architectural buildings and works, the Japanese Garden, the iconic Recoleta Cemetery, the Planetarium, and much more.
Shopping
Where can you find the most important shops in Buenos Aires? In Palermo! The neighborhood has various commercial areas, some of which are centered around a shopping mall like Alto Palermo or Patio Bullrich. However, the phenomenon of commercial shops and shopping promenades is more evident in the streets and avenues filled with first- and second-line brands.
Among the hottest shopping areas, we highlight Santa Fe Avenue, Coronel Díaz Avenue, Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, and many more points.
You will also find an interesting outlet area in the streets that connect the Palermo neighborhood with its neighboring Villa Crespo.
Last Considerations
Can you see yourself living or exploring the dynamic neighborhood of Palermo in Buenos Aires? With its eclectic mix of dining options, cultural hotspots, and green spaces, Palermo is a true gem in the heart of the city.
Whether you’re a digital nomad, a traveler, or an expat, Palermo promises a unique and enriching experience. Dive into the vibrant lifestyle that this neighborhood offers and discover why so many choose to call it home. F
or more detailed guides and tips, visit ExpatPathways and start your journey to uncover all that Palermo (Buenos Aires) has to offer.
(Featured Image Source: onas mer/flickr.com)
