What if you could step back in time and walk through the very origins of Buenos Aires? As a digital nomad, traveler, or expat, exploring El Zanjón de Granados offers you a chance to do just that.
This historic site in San Telmo is a fascinating blend of urban archaeology and architectural beauty, waiting to be discovered.
Dive into this guide from ExpatPathways, where we provide all the essential information you need before your visit to one of Buenos Aires’ most captivating attractions.
El Zanjón de Granados (Buenos Aires): Everything You Need to Know Before Your Visit
What is the Zanjón de Granados?
The Zanjón de Granados complex is located in what was the seventh and final southern block of the city founded in 1580 by Juan de Garay.
This was not the southern limit by chance but because a stream ran through this block, one of the three that carried waters from the city’s heights to the Río de la Plata.
Archaeological Discovery
In the 1980s, the current owner made an accidental archaeological discovery while attempting to restore this Italian-style house, whose facade and courtyards date from the first half of the 19th century.
Excavations unearthed tunnels that once channeled the Zanjón de Granados, cisterns, wells, utensils, containers, and remnants of constructions from 1700, 1740, and 1830 under the mansion and adjacent buildings.
Historical Significance
This mansion, built around 1830, sits atop a section of the now-vanished Zanjón de Granados, a branch of the Tercero del Sur stream, marking the southern boundary of the city founded by Juan de Garay in 1580.
In 1779, a Spanish immigrant from Galicia purchased this land with a small house, and later a family member built this mansion as a family residence. Due to the yellow fever outbreak in 1871, these mansions were abandoned and turned into tenements for low-income immigrant families, modifying the house to meet new needs.
Modern Restoration and Significance
In 1985, this property was acquired by a local from San Telmo for a commercial project. During the restoration, a tunnel was unexpectedly discovered, leading to archaeological work and unprecedented investigations and publications.
This site is the most important archaeological work in the city, clearly illustrating the ancient urban drainage system and its changes over time. Visitors can explore a labyrinth of tunnels showcasing over four centuries of the city’s history, including artifacts from the 16th century.
Today, the Zanjón de Granados functions as a museum and event center, offering a magical journey to the origins of Buenos Aires. Located in the historic San Telmo neighborhood, it reveals the city’s rich heritage hidden beneath a 19th-century mansion.
Founder’s Dedication
For 38 years, founder Jorge Eckstein dedicated himself to restoring the ruins of an abandoned building and the tunnels accidentally discovered beneath it. His devotion transformed this project into a valuable cultural heritage site.
Initially unaware of the mysteries beneath, his real estate investment turned into a significant historical discovery. Jorge’s persistence led to more discoveries and connections between him, his neighbors, the building’s past, and the city’s history.
His dedication resulted in a unique architectural achievement born of love, care, and passion.
Visitor Experience
Beneath a meticulously restored early 19th-century mansion lies a spectacular labyrinth of brick-vaulted tunnels, forgotten for over a century. Visitors can explore these ancient foundations, cisterns, and archaeological ruins, discovering fascinating myths and stories.
The Zanjón de Granados offers a mystical journey to the origins of Buenos Aires, a magical space where poetry, history, and myth coexist, representing the city’s most significant archaeological recovery.
Where is the Zanjón de Granados?
Location
The Zanjón de Granados is located in the San Telmo neighborhood, in what was the central area of early Buenos Aires in the 16th century.
Address: Defensa 755, San Telmo (1065) Buenos Aires, Argentina
This mansion, built around 1830, sits atop a section of the now-vanished Zanjón de Granados, a branch of the Tercero del Sur stream, marking the southern boundary of the city founded by Juan de Garay in 1580.
In 1985, a local from San Telmo acquired this property for a commercial project, leading to archaeological discoveries.
Historical Context
The complex is situated in the historic core of the city. The area between Defensa, Chile, and Pasaje San Lorenzo was traversed by a stream, one of three carrying water from the city’s heights to the Río de la Plata.
These streams were called the Terceros, and the one discovered during this archaeological recovery was named Tercero del Sur, known in this section as El Zanjón de Granados.
How can I get to Zanjón de Granados?
Public Transportation
The Zanjón de Granados, located at the intersection of Defensa and Chile streets in the San Telmo neighborhood, is accessible through various means of public transportation.
Due to the historical nature and narrow streets of the area, public transport gets you close, but you might need to walk a few blocks.
Bus
Several bus lines pass near the Zanjón de Granados: 2, 8, 33, 74, 93, 126, 130, and 152.
Train
You can also take the Mitre, Roca, and Sarmiento train lines, with the Constitución station being just a few blocks away from San Telmo.
Subway
The subway (subterráneos) is another good option. The C and E lines run North-South and are practical for getting close to the Zanjón de Granados, while the A, D, and B lines can drop you off at some of the avenues running East-West, though the walking distance might be more considerable.
Private Vehicles and Taxis
Using private vehicles or taxis to get to the Zanjón de Granados is not the best idea. The area features cobblestone streets, narrow passageways, and is heavily frequented by pedestrians, especially on weekends, which can make driving chaotic.
Why is it important to visit Zanjón de Granados?
Visiting the Zanjón de Granados offers a unique glimpse into the historical and cultural fabric of Buenos Aires. Here’s why it’s a must-visit:
- Historical Significance: Before the 1980s, this was an abandoned house. The restoration revealed a historical construction with over 200 years of history, showcasing the city’s planning from its earliest days.
- Immigrant History: Learn about the immigrants who lived in this house when it was a conventillo, reflecting the diverse cultural and social constitution of Buenos Aires.
- Architectural Preservation: Much of the original structure remains intact. Restoration efforts focused on reinforcing the foundations and the deteriorated mud used in the bricks.
- Underground Tunnels: Discover the Zanjón de Granados tunnels, which connect to another property, allowing you to enter on Defensa street and exit on Chile street.
- Cultural Connection: The site exemplifies the small-scale coexistence of immigrants from different backgrounds, mirroring the broader cultural integration of Buenos Aires.
- Archaeological Discovery: Experience the most significant archaeological recovery in the city, revealing ancient urban drainage systems and artifacts dating back to the 16th century.
- Event Center and Museum: Today, the Zanjón de Granados serves as a museum and event center, offering a magical journey through the history of Buenos Aires.
Last Considerations
Have you decided to embark on a historical journey through Buenos Aires? El Zanjón de Granados offers an unparalleled glimpse into the city’s origins, making it a must-visit for digital nomads, travelers, and expats alike.
This guide has provided everything you need to know before your visit, ensuring you can fully appreciate the archaeological wonders that await. Embrace the challenge and let El Zanjón de Granados be the next unforgettable stop on your Buenos Aires adventure.
For more insightful tips and local guides, visit ExpatPathways, your trusted companion in exploring Buenos Aires.
(Featured Image Source: Ted McGrath/flickr.com)
