Are you ready to explore one of the most breathtaking bookstores in the world? Recognized as one of the best bookstores globally, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is housed in a former theater, cinema, and radio station, now transformed into an incredible literary haven.

The original architecture, meticulously preserved, creates a unique ambiance that harmoniously blends with the shelves and book collections on every floor.

Don’t miss the chance to visit this remarkable spot in Buenos Aires. Dive into the full guide by ExpatPathways and prepare to be amazed by this cultural gem.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid (Buenos Aires): Everything You Need to Know Before Your Visit

What is El Ateneo Grand Splendid?

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a bookstore located in the Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires. It stands out for being situated in the former Grand Splendid theater, having preserved the original architecture while being adapted to function as a bookstore.

In 2008, it was chosen by the British newspaper The Guardian as the second most beautiful bookstore in the world, and in 2019, National Geographic declared it the most beautiful in the world.

History of the Building

The current building was started in 1917 and inaugurated in May 1919 by Austrian-born businessman Max Glücksmann. He commissioned its construction to establish a cinema-theater on the foundations of the former Teatro Nacional Norte.

Designed by architects Peró and Torres Armengol and built by architects Pizoney and Falcope, the new theater was named “Gran Splendid.” It featured four rows of boxes and an auditorium with a capacity for 500 people.

Between 1919 and 1982, it functioned as a theater, showcasing the talents of many Argentine and international artists. Then, between 1982 and 1999, the Grand Splendid operated as a cinema, screening the most notable international releases.

Transition to a Bookstore

The bookstore phase began in 2000, with a $3 million investment in renovations. El Ateneo is a brand founded in 1912 and is currently associated with both the Yenny chain and the digital bookstore Tematika.

The transformation preserved the building’s original grandeur, including its railings, decorations, and the dome frescoes by Nazareno Orlandi, an Italian-Argentine artist, painted in 1919 to celebrate the end of World War I.

Notable Features and Attractions

El Ateneo Grand Splendid holds several records: it is the largest bookstore in South America, was chosen by The Guardian as the second-best bookstore in the world, and was highlighted by National Geographic as the most beautiful. The bookstore boasts 120,000 titles in stock and a sales area of 4,000 square meters, receiving about 3,000 visits a day on average.

The main attraction of the establishment, besides its role as a bookstore, is its architecture. The bookstore has preserved the original features: the painted dome, original balconies, ornamentation, and the velvet curtain. Additionally, there are various armchairs for sitting and reading without any obligation to purchase, as well as a bar, restaurant, and café that operates on the former theater stage. A piano on the stage provides music to set the ambiance.

In the basement, there is a section dedicated to children’s books, and the upper floor is often used for exhibitions. The former stage, with its slightly open velvet curtain, hosts a bar inviting visitors to sit with a book in hand. Visitors can also sit in the exclusive boxes that function as small reading rooms.

Historical Tidbits

The iconic Radio Splendid operated in the building, starting its broadcasts on May 23, 1923. These were done from the first floor of the building, and an inclined antenna tower was set up on the roof, visible from the surroundings.

On October 1, 1929, Carlos Gardel debuted singing on the radio from this station. Radio Grand Splendid left these premises in 1930.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid continues to be a hub of cultural and historical significance in Buenos Aires, blending its rich past with a vibrant present.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is the largest bookstore in South America
El Ateneo Grand Splendid holds several records. (Image Source: Luke Ryan/flickr.com)

Where is El Ateneo Grand Splendid located?

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is located in the Recoleta neighborhood, northeast of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires. It is situated on the emblematic Santa Fe Avenue 1860, between Riobamba Street and another iconic avenue, Callao.

It is one of the most prominent areas in terms of commercial and tourist activity.

To the north of El Ateneo Grand Splendid, you can find important tourist sites such as the Recoleta Cemetery, Las Heras Park, Plaza Francia, and the Law School of the University of Buenos Aires.

To the east is the 9 de Julio Avenue, the widest in the world and a key corridor connecting the north and south of Buenos Aires.

To the south of El Ateneo Grand Splendid are the neighborhoods of Balvanera and San Cristóbal, home to landmarks such as the National Congress, Palacio Barolo, and major avenues like Córdoba, Corrientes, and Belgrano.

Additionally, to the west of El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic neighborhoods: Palermo. It’s like a city within the city of Buenos Aires.

How to get to El Ateneo Grand Splendid?

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is conveniently located near the intersection of two subway lines: Line D and Line H. Both lines are excellent options for reaching the bookstore.

If you choose Line D, you can get off at Callao, Pueyrredón, or Facultad de Medicina stations. On the other hand, if you take Line H, you should get off at the Santa Fe station and walk a few blocks to the bookstore.

Additionally, buses on lines 12, 17, 37, 39, 111, 124, 150, and 152, among others, pass near El Ateneo Grand Splendid and can be ideal options when subways are not accessible from your starting point.

Bicycles can also be a good option for reaching this part of Buenos Aires. However, note that there are no protected bike lanes or exclusive lanes on the side streets or nearby avenues, except on the back street of El Ateneo Grand Splendid (Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear Street).

For private cars, including taxis and rideshare services like Cabify or Uber, the area tends to be busy, especially on weekdays during peak hours (8-10 AM and 5-8 PM).

El Ateneo Grand Splendid
El Ateneo Grand Splendid is conveniently located near the intersection of two subway lines: Line D and Line H. Both lines are excellent options for reaching the bookstore. (Image source: Martasusanaperez/flickr.com)

Things to do at El Ateneo Grand Splendid de Buenos Aires

Literary and Musical Tour

When you visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, you’re not just stepping into Argentina’s and Buenos Aires’ most beautiful bookstore. You’re entering an iconic building in national history. This building once housed not only a theater but also a significant radio station in Argentine broadcasting history. Therefore, you will be surrounded by books, music records, and shelves within a space that has witnessed renowned artists.

You can also take the opportunity to read a book that catches your eye and enjoy the ambiance of what was once a theater and cinema.

Admire the Architecture

Connected to the literary and musical experience, visiting El Ateneo Grand Splendid offers a firsthand encounter with the best of Argentine architecture. The Grand Splendid Theater, now home to the bookstore, was inaugurated in 1919. Its walls, ceilings, dome, and balconies reflect the pinnacle of Argentine aesthetic achievement during its golden era.

We invite you not only to photograph and film the hundreds of books and shelves on each level but also to capture the structure as a whole, both from the ground floor and the upper levels.

Buy a Book or a Music Record

Besides being a beautiful and historic building, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is foremost a bookstore. Rated as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, many presidents and famous personalities visiting Buenos Aires make it a point to see this place.

You will find thousands of books and music records spread across the shelves on different levels. From literary classics to new releases, including books in English and records by various national and international artists, there’s something for everyone.

Visiting El Ateneo Grand Splendid is an excellent way to immerse yourself in Argentine culture, buy a book, or discover a musical artist.

Enjoy a Coffee at the Café

Did you know that there is a café on the former stage of the Grand Splendid Theater? Now you do!

To utilize the space where theater performances once took place, the authorities of El Ateneo Grand Splendid established a café. Here, you can enjoy a coffee, a snack, breakfast, and other delightful treats with an incredible view.

Can you imagine purchasing a book and enjoying it with a coffee in the heart of El Ateneo Grand Splendid? Make this dream a reality when you visit this magnificent place in Buenos Aires.

Last Considerations

Why not make your next cultural adventure a visit to one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores? As a digital nomad, traveler, or expat in Buenos Aires, you’ll find that El Ateneo Grand Splendid combines breathtaking architecture, a rich historical background, and an extensive array of books that cater to every interest.

Challenge yourself to discover this iconic landmark and experience the blend of history and literature. Follow the comprehensive guide provided by ExpatPathways to make the most of your visit to this unparalleled cultural gem.

(Featured Image Source: shawnie1974/flickr.com)

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Holding a degree in Social Communication, I am a writer and journalist with a deep passion for tourism, history, and gastronomy. Born and raised in Buenos Aires, I believe fervently that each culture represents a unique world, compelling us to explore and study even its most minute and secretive details. Join me as we delve into my experiences observing the world, and let’s reflect together before you take your next step as a digital nomad or traveler.

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